Kartli (Georgia)

Kartli: A Wine Lover’s Paradise in Georgia

Nestled in the heart of Georgia, Kartli offers a unique blend of ancient winemaking traditions and modern viticultural practices. This region, with its diverse landscapes and rich history, provides wine enthusiasts with an unforgettable experience.

Towns and Villages

Kartli’s charming towns and villages are steeped in winemaking heritage. Gori, the largest city in the region, serves as an excellent base for exploring local vineyards.

  • Mtskheta: A UNESCO World Heritage site and former capital of Georgia, known for its historical monuments and nearby wineries.
  • Kaspi: A small town with a growing reputation for quality wines, particularly those made from the Chinuri grape.
  • Atenuri: A picturesque village famous for its sparkling wines and the stunning Ateni Sioni Church.

Wine Producers

Kartli boasts a mix of traditional family-run cellars and modern wineries. Some notable producers include:

  • Iago’s Wine: A small, organic winery in Chardakhi village, known for its qvevri-made Chinuri wines.
  • Chateau Mukhrani: A restored 19th-century castle and winery offering tours, tastings, and a glimpse into royal winemaking history.
  • Ateni Wine Cellar: Specializing in sparkling wines made using the traditional method from local grape varieties.
  • Giorgi Natenadze’s Wine Cellar: Focusing on rare, indigenous grape varieties and ancient winemaking techniques.

Accommodations

Kartli offers a range of accommodations to suit different preferences and budgets:

  • Chateau Mukhrani: Luxurious rooms in a historic setting, perfect for wine lovers.
  • Guesthouse Lali in Gori: A comfortable, family-run option with homemade wine.
  • Mtskheta Inn: A cozy hotel in the heart of Mtskheta, close to historical sites and wineries.
  • Camping Gori: For budget-conscious travelers, offering a unique outdoor experience near vineyards.

Dining

Kartli’s culinary scene perfectly complements its wines. Local restaurants offer traditional Georgian dishes and wine pairings:

  • Barbarestan in Mtskheta: Serves Georgian cuisine based on a 19th-century cookbook, with an extensive local wine list.
  • Veranda in Gori: Offers panoramic views and traditional Kartlian dishes.
  • Restaurant Salobie in Kaspi: Famous for its lobio (bean stew) and local wines.
  • Chateau Mukhrani Restaurant: Fine dining with wine pairings from the estate’s vineyards.

Wine Shops & Bars

Kartli offers wine enthusiasts several options to sample and purchase local wines:

  • 8000 Vintages in Mtskheta: A wine shop and tasting room featuring a wide selection of Georgian wines, including those from Kartli.
  • Vino Underground in Gori: A cozy wine bar specializing in natural and qvevri wines from small producers.
  • Kartli Wine House in Kaspi: A local shop offering tastings and sales of wines from various Kartli producers.
  • Chateau Mukhrani Wine Shop: Located at the winery, it provides a comprehensive selection of their wines and other local products.

Other Shops

While exploring Kartli, don’t miss these unique shopping experiences:

  • Gori Central Market: A bustling local market where you can find fresh produce, cheeses, and homemade wines.
  • Mtskheta Handicraft Market: Offers traditional Georgian crafts, including wine-related items like drinking horns and clay jugs.
  • Kaspi Pottery Workshop: Purchase authentic qvevri and other clay vessels used in winemaking.
  • Ateni Farmer’s Market: A small but charming market showcasing local agricultural products and artisanal goods.

Attractions

Kartli boasts numerous attractions that complement its wine culture:

  • Uplistsikhe Cave Town: An ancient rock-hewn town with a history dating back to the 1st millennium BC.
  • Jvari Monastery: A 6th-century Georgian Orthodox monastery overlooking Mtskheta, offering panoramic views of the region.
  • Stalin Museum in Gori: A controversial but intriguing museum dedicated to the Soviet leader born in this town.
  • Ateni Sioni Church: A 7th-century church known for its unique architecture and frescoes, surrounded by vineyards.

Events

Kartli’s wine calendar is filled with exciting events:

  • Kartli Wine Festival (May): Held in Gori, this festival showcases wines from across the region, accompanied by traditional music and dance.
  • Rtveli (September-October): The grape harvest season, where many wineries invite visitors to participate in picking and crushing grapes.
  • Mtskheta-Mtianeti Wine Fair (June): An annual event in Mtskheta featuring local wines, food, and cultural performances.
  • Chateau Mukhrani Open Cellar Days (various dates): Special events at the winery offering tours, tastings, and wine-pairing dinners.

Appellations

Kartli’s wine appellations reflect its diverse terroir:

  • Ateni PDO: Known for its sparkling wines made from Chinuri grapes.
  • Gori-Manavi PDO: Produces both red and white wines, with Tavkveri and Chinuri being prominent varieties.
  • Khashmi PDO: Specializes in Saperavi-based red wines.
  • Bolnisi PDO: Located in the southern part of Kartli, known for its full-bodied red wines.

Grape Varieties

Kartli’s vineyards boast a rich diversity of indigenous grape varieties. Chinuri and Goruli Mtsvane are the region’s stars for white wines.

  • Chinuri: Produces crisp, aromatic whites with apple and citrus notes
  • Goruli Mtsvane: Offers elegant, floral whites with good acidity
  • Tavkveri: A red variety known for light-bodied, fruity wines
  • Shavkapito: Creates full-bodied reds with dark fruit flavors

Main Wine Styles

Kartli’s winemaking traditions blend ancient techniques with modern approaches. The region is known for its qvevri wines and European-style offerings.

  • Qvevri whites: Amber-colored, tannic wines with complex flavors
  • Sparkling Chinuri: Crisp, effervescent wines gaining popularity
  • Modern-style reds: Fresh, fruit-forward wines from Tavkveri and Shavkapito
  • Rosé: Light, refreshing wines often made from Tavkveri

Food Specialties

Kartli’s cuisine complements its wines perfectly. Try these local dishes during your visit:

  • Khinkali: Juicy dumplings filled with meat or cheese
  • Mtsvadi: Skewered and grilled meat, often pork or lamb
  • Pkhali: Vegetable pâtés made with walnuts and herbs
  • Kartopiliani: Cheesy potato bread, a regional specialty

Drives & Walks

Explore Kartli’s scenic landscapes and vineyards through these routes:

  • Ateni Gorge Drive: A picturesque journey past ancient churches and vineyards
  • Uplistsikhe Cave Town Walk: Explore rock-hewn structures and enjoy panoramic views
  • Mukhrani Estate Vineyard Tour: Stroll through manicured vineyards and gardens
  • Gori to Ateni Monastery Hike: A moderate trek offering stunning valley vistas

Itineraries

3-Day Wine Lover’s Tour

Day 1: Start in Gori, visit Stalin Museum, then head to Ateni for wine tasting.

Day 2: Explore Uplistsikhe, followed by a vineyard tour and tasting at Chateau Mukhrani.

Day 3: Visit small family wineries in Kaspi, ending with a traditional supra (feast) in Mtskheta.

5-Day Kartli Explorer

Days 1-2: Gori and surroundings, including Stalin Museum and Ateni Gorge.

Day 3: Uplistsikhe and local winery visits in Kaspi.

Day 4: Chateau Mukhrani and nearby vineyards.

Day 5: Mtskheta’s historical sites and farewell dinner with Kartli wines.

Getting There & Around

Kartli is easily accessible from Tbilisi, Georgia’s capital. Rental cars offer the most flexibility for exploring vineyards.

  • By car: 1-hour drive from Tbilisi to Gori, the region’s main city
  • By train: Regular services from Tbilisi to Gori (1.5 hours)
  • By marshrutka: Minibuses depart frequently from Didube station in Tbilisi

Best Time to Visit

September to October is ideal for wine enthusiasts, coinciding with the harvest season. Spring (April-May) offers pleasant weather and budding vines.

  • Summer (June-August): Hot, perfect for outdoor activities
  • Winter (November-March): Cold, but cozy for indoor wine tastings

Sustainability Efforts

Kartli’s wineries are increasingly adopting eco-friendly practices. Look for these initiatives:

  • Organic viticulture: Many small producers use traditional, chemical-free methods
  • Water conservation: Drip irrigation systems in modern vineyards
  • Solar power: Some wineries use renewable energy for operations
  • Eco-tours: Guided visits highlighting sustainable winemaking practices

Language Tips

While English is spoken in tourist areas, learning a few Georgian phrases can enhance your experience:

  • Gamarjoba (gah-mar-jo-ba): Hello
  • Madloba (mad-lo-ba): Thank you
  • Ghvino (ghvi-no): Wine
  • Gaumarjos (gau-mar-jos): Cheers

Further Resources

Enhance your Kartli wine adventure with these helpful resources:

Wine Regions in Kartli (Georgia)

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