Discovering Rioja Oriental: Spain’s Hidden Wine Gem
Rioja Oriental, formerly known as Rioja Baja, is the easternmost subregion of La Rioja, Spain’s renowned wine country. This area offers a unique blend of traditional winemaking and modern innovation, set against a backdrop of stunning landscapes and rich cultural heritage.
Towns and Villages
The charming towns of Rioja Oriental provide a perfect base for wine exploration:
- Alfaro: Known for its impressive stork population and the Collegiate Church of San Miguel
- Calahorra: A historic city with Roman roots and excellent gastronomy
- Arnedo: Famous for its shoe industry and the nearby Caves of the One Hundred Pillars
Wine Producers
Rioja Oriental boasts several noteworthy wineries:
- Bodegas Ontañón: Offers tours of their vineyard and museum
- Marqués de Reinosa: Known for their premium Tempranillo wines
- Bodegas Palacios Remondo: Produces organic wines with a focus on sustainability
Accommodations
Stay close to the vineyards with these wine-themed lodgings:
- Hotel Viña Magaña: A family-run winery with comfortable rooms
- Finca de los Arandinos: Modern design hotel surrounded by vineyards
- Casa Rural La Zaranda: Rustic guesthouse in a converted 18th-century manor
Dining
Savor local cuisine paired with regional wines at these establishments:
- La Vieja Bodega (Casalarreina): Traditional Riojan dishes in a historic setting
- Asador El Portal (Calahorra): Renowned for its wood-fired grilled meats
- Restaurante Sopitas (Arnedo): Modern takes on classic Riojan recipes
Wine Shops & Bars
Explore Rioja Oriental’s wine scene at these local establishments:
- Vinoteca El Lagar (Calahorra): Extensive selection of local wines and tapas
- La Tavina (Logroño): Wine bar with over 500 labels and knowledgeable staff
- Vinotécnic (Arnedo): Boutique wine shop offering tastings and workshops
Other Shops
Pick up local specialties and souvenirs:
- Conservas Cidacos (Autol): Famous for its canned vegetables and fruits
- Embutidos Palacios (Albelda de Iregua): Traditional cured meats and sausages
- Alfarería Naharro (Navarrete): Handcrafted pottery and ceramics
Attractions
Beyond wine, Rioja Oriental offers diverse experiences:
- Dinosaur Route: Visit paleontological sites in Enciso and Ignácio
- Monastery of Santa María la Real (Nájera): 11th-century monastery with royal pantheon
- La Rioja Tierra Abierta: Cultural exhibitions showcasing the region’s heritage
Events
Time your visit with these wine-centric celebrations:
- Rioja Wine Harvest Festival (September): Wine-themed parades and activities in Logroño
- San Mateo Fiestas (September): Grape-stomping competitions and wine tastings
- Alfaro Wine Fair (May): Local wineries showcase their latest vintages
Appellations
Understand the wine classifications of the region:
- DOCa Rioja: The primary appellation covering all of La Rioja
- Rioja Oriental: A subzone within DOCa Rioja, known for its full-bodied reds
- Vinos de la Tierra Valles de Sadacia: A separate designation for wines made from Moscatel grapes
Grape Varieties
Rioja Oriental, formerly known as Rioja Baja, is known for its robust red wines. The main grape varieties grown in this region include:
- Tempranillo: The backbone of Rioja wines, producing full-bodied reds with notes of cherry and leather
- Garnacha: Adds fruitiness and alcohol content to blends
- Graciano: Contributes acidity and aromatic complexity
- Mazuelo (Cariñena): Adds tannins and color to blends
White grape varieties, though less common, include Viura, Malvasía, and Garnacha Blanca.
Main Wine Styles
Rioja Oriental produces bold, fruit-forward red wines. The main styles include:
- Joven: Young, unoaked wines with fresh fruit flavors
- Crianza: Aged for at least two years, with a minimum of 12 months in oak
- Reserva: Aged for at least three years, with a minimum of 12 months in oak
- Gran Reserva: Aged for at least five years, with a minimum of 18 months in oak
The region also produces some rosé and white wines, though in smaller quantities.
Food Specialties
Rioja Oriental’s cuisine pairs perfectly with its wines. Local specialties include:
- Cordero al sarmiento: Lamb grilled over vine cuttings
- Patatas a la riojana: Potatoes with chorizo and peppers
- Pochas: Fresh white beans stewed with vegetables
- Chuletillas al sarmiento: Grilled lamb chops
Don’t miss the region’s olive oils and peppers, which have their own Denomination of Origin.
Drives & Walks
Explore Rioja Oriental’s scenic landscapes and vineyards through these routes:
- Alfaro to Calahorra Drive: A 30-minute journey showcasing the region’s diverse terrain
- Monte Yerga Hike: Offers panoramic views of the Ebro Valley and surrounding vineyards
- Cidacos Valley Route: A picturesque drive through charming villages and prehistoric sites
Many wineries offer guided walks through their vineyards, providing insights into local viticulture.
Itineraries
2-Day Wine Lover’s Tour
Day 1: Start in Alfaro, visiting Bodegas Palacios Remondo. Enjoy lunch in Calahorra, then tour Bodegas Marco Real.
Day 2: Explore Arnedo’s shoe museum, followed by a tasting at Bodegas Ontañón. End with dinner in Calahorra’s old town.
3-Day Cultural and Wine Experience
Day 1: Begin in Calahorra, visiting the Cathedral and Roman ruins. Afternoon wine tasting at Bodegas Dinastía Vivanco.
Day 2: Drive to Arnedo for shoe shopping and a vineyard tour at Bodegas Faustino. Evening tapas crawl in Alfaro.
Day 3: Hike Monte Yerga, followed by lunch and wine tasting at Bodegas Marqués de Reinosa in Autol.
Getting There & Around
Rioja Oriental is easily accessible by car from major Spanish cities. The nearest airports are:
- Logroño-Agoncillo Airport: 50 km from Calahorra
- Zaragoza Airport: 170 km from Calahorra
- Bilbao Airport: 180 km from Calahorra
Renting a car is the best way to explore the region’s wineries and villages. Local buses connect major towns, but schedules can be limited.
Best Time to Visit
The ideal time to visit Rioja Oriental is during the grape harvest season, from late September to early October. Spring (April-June) offers pleasant weather and fewer crowds.
Avoid August, as many businesses close for summer holidays. Winter can be chilly, but it’s perfect for cozy wine tastings and hearty local cuisine.
Sustainability Efforts
Rioja Oriental is embracing sustainable viticulture. Key initiatives include:
- Organic farming: Many wineries are transitioning to organic practices
- Water conservation: Drip irrigation systems are widely used
- Biodiversity promotion: Planting cover crops and preserving natural habitats
Visit Bodegas Ontañón to learn about their sustainable winemaking practices and solar energy use.
Language Tips
While English is spoken in tourist areas, knowing some Spanish will enhance your experience. Useful wine-related phrases:
- Bodega: Winery
- Cata de vinos: Wine tasting
- Tinto/Blanco/Rosado: Red/White/Rosé wine
- Salud: Cheers
Learn local grape variety names like Tempranillo and Garnacha to impress winemakers.
Further Resources
For more information on Rioja Oriental wines and travel:
- Rioja Wine Official Website: Comprehensive guide to Rioja wines
- La Rioja Tourism: Official tourism portal with event listings and travel tips
- Rioja Wine App: Available on iOS and Android, offers winery information and tasting notes
Follow local wine critics like Tim Atkin MW for expert insights on Rioja wines.
