Discover Telavi: Kakheti’s Wine Capital
Telavi, the heart of Georgia’s Kakheti wine region, offers a blend of ancient winemaking traditions and modern wine tourism. This charming town, nestled in the Alazani Valley, serves as an ideal base for exploring the region’s vineyards and cellars.
Towns and Villages
While Telavi is the main hub, several picturesque villages dot the Kakheti landscape:
- Tsinandali: Home to the Tsinandali Estate, once owned by poet Alexander Chavchavadze
- Napareuli: Known for its unique Qvevri wine museum
- Kvareli: Birthplace of writer Ilia Chavchavadze and home to the Khareba Winery tunnels
Wine Producers
Kakheti boasts numerous wineries, ranging from small family operations to large estates:
- Pheasant’s Tears: Renowned for natural wines made in qvevri
- Shumi Winery: Offers a wine museum and tasting experiences
- Kindzmarauli Marani: Specializes in the semi-sweet Kindzmarauli wine
Local Tip
Many smaller producers offer homestay experiences, allowing visitors to participate in the winemaking process.
Accommodations
Telavi and surrounding areas offer a range of lodging options:
- Holiday Inn Telavi: Modern hotel with vineyard views
- Chateau Mere: Boutique hotel with its own winery
- Schuchmann Wines Chateau: Luxury rooms overlooking vineyards
Budget Option
Consider guesthouses in villages like Kisiskhevi for an authentic local experience.
Dining
Kakheti’s cuisine complements its wines perfectly:
- Barbarestan: Upscale restaurant serving traditional Georgian dishes
- Marleta: Local favorite known for its khinkali (dumplings) and mtsvadi (grilled meat skewers)
- Pheasant’s Tears Restaurant: Organic, locally-sourced menu paired with natural wines
Must-Try Dish
Sample Kakheti-style Mtsvadi, skewered meat grilled over grapevine cuttings for a unique smoky flavor.
Wine Shops & Bars
Telavi and surrounding towns offer various options for wine tasting and purchasing:
- Telavi Wine Cellar: Large shop with an extensive selection of local wines
- 8000 Vintages: Boutique wine bar in Telavi, featuring rare and natural wines
- Twins Wine House: Combination shop and tasting room in Napareuli
Local Tip
Many wineries have on-site shops where you can taste and buy wines directly from the source.
Other Shops
While wine dominates, Kakheti offers other shopping experiences:
- Telavi Bazaar: Traditional market for local produce and crafts
- Georgian Handmade: Artisanal shop in Telavi selling traditional crafts and souvenirs
- Tsinandali Estate Gift Shop: Unique wine-related gifts and local products
Attractions
Beyond wineries, Kakheti boasts historical and cultural sites:
- Alaverdi Monastery: 11th-century Georgian Orthodox monastery with stunning architecture
- Gremi Citadel: 16th-century architectural complex, once a thriving town
- Sighnaghi: Picturesque hilltop town known as the “City of Love”
Don’t Miss
Visit the Kakheti Wine Museum in Telavi to learn about the 8,000-year history of Georgian winemaking.
Events
Kakheti’s calendar is filled with wine-related celebrations:
- Rtveli: Traditional grape harvest festival held in September and October
- Telavi Wine Festival: Annual event in May showcasing local wines and cuisine
- Alaverdoba: Religious and folk festival at Alaverdi Monastery in September
Insider Tip
Plan your visit during Rtveli to participate in grape picking and traditional winemaking activities.
Appellations
Kakheti is home to several Protected Designations of Origin (PDO) for wine:
- Tsinandali: White wine blend of Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane grapes
- Kindzmarauli: Semi-sweet red wine made from Saperavi grapes
- Kakheti: Broad appellation covering wines from the entire region
Wine Tasting Tip
Try a Qvevri wine to experience Georgia’s traditional winemaking method using clay vessels.
Grape Varieties
Telavi, the heart of Georgia’s Kakheti wine region, is home to several indigenous grape varieties. Saperavi stands out as the most important red grape, producing deep-colored, full-bodied wines.
White varieties include Rkatsiteli, known for its versatility, and Mtsvane Kakhuri, prized for aromatic whites. Other local grapes to look out for:
- Kisi
- Khikhvi
- Chinuri
- Tavkveri
Main Wine Styles
Telavi’s winemakers craft a diverse range of styles, blending tradition with innovation. Qvevri wines, fermented in clay vessels, offer a unique taste of Georgian winemaking heritage.
Popular styles include:
- Bold, tannic reds from Saperavi
- Crisp, fruity whites from Rkatsiteli
- Amber wines with extended skin contact
- Traditional semi-sweet reds
Food Specialties
Kakheti’s cuisine pairs perfectly with its wines. Mtsvadi (grilled meat skewers) and Khachapuri (cheese-filled bread) are local favorites.
Don’t miss:
- Churchkhela: grape juice candy with nuts
- Khashlama: slow-cooked lamb stew
- Pkhali: vegetable pâté with walnuts
Drives & Walks
Explore Telavi’s scenic landscapes through picturesque drives and walks. The Gombori Pass offers breathtaking views of the Alazani Valley and Caucasus Mountains.
Recommended routes:
- Telavi to Signagi: winding road through vineyards
- Lopota Lake trail: serene forest walk
- Gremi to Nekresi Monastery: historical wine country tour
Itineraries
Plan your Telavi wine adventure with these curated itineraries. A 3-day tour allows you to experience the region’s highlights.
Sample itinerary:
- Day 1: Explore Telavi town, visit Tsinandali Estate
- Day 2: Tour qvevri winemakers, enjoy traditional supra dinner
- Day 3: Drive to Signagi, visit Bodbe Monastery, wine tasting at Pheasant’s Tears
Getting There & Around
Telavi is accessible by road from Tbilisi, about 2 hours away. Marshrutkas (minibuses) run regularly from Tbilisi’s Isani and Ortachala stations.
- Taxis offer more comfort but are pricier
- Rent a car for flexibility in exploring wineries
- Local buses connect Telavi to nearby villages
Best Time to Visit
The autumn harvest season (September-October) is ideal for wine enthusiasts. Spring (April-May) offers pleasant weather and blooming landscapes.
- Summer (June-August): Hot, perfect for outdoor activities
- Winter (November-March): Quieter, some wineries close
Sustainability Efforts
Many Telavi wineries embrace eco-friendly practices. Organic viticulture is gaining popularity, preserving the region’s unique terroir.
- Pheasant’s Tears: Biodynamic farming
- Alaverdi Monastery: Traditional qvevri winemaking
- Shumi Winery: Preserving rare grape varieties
Language Tips
While English is spoken in tourist areas, learning a few Georgian phrases enhances your experience. Key wine-related terms:
- Ghvino (ღვინო): Wine
- Gaumarjos (გაუმარჯოს): Cheers
- Marani (მარანი): Wine cellar
Further Resources
Enhance your Telavi wine journey with these resources: