Solo Rioja

Bus from Bilbao to Haro (2 hours, €8). Checked into a €40/night pensión in the old town. Walked the Barrio de la Estación — Spain's greatest concentration of historic bodegas, all within walking distance. Tasted at López de Heredia (the most traditional bodega in Rioja, stunning Art Nouveau tasting room) and CVNE. Tapas crawl on Calle de la Herrería: each pintxo €2-3 with a small glass of crianza.

Rented a bike (€15/day) and cycled to the architectural bodegas: Marqués de Riscal (Frank Gehry's titanium waves, €20 tour), Ysios (Santiago Calatrava's wave-shaped roof), and Baigorri (built into a cliff). The contrast between traditional and modern Rioja is fascinating. Evening wine bar hopping in Haro — met a local wine student who joined me for dinner.

Bus to Laguardia — a fortified medieval village sitting on top of a network of wine cellars. The entire town is undermined with caves used for ageing wine since the 13th century. Tasted at three bodegas within the walls, each offering cave tours. Lunch at an asador: slow-roasted lamb with a bottle of reserva for €22.

Morning at the Vivanco Museum of Wine Culture in Briones — one of the best wine museums in the world (€10). Extensive collection of corkscrews, art, and winemaking history. Afternoon tasting at two final bodegas. Bus back to Bilbao for a farewell pintxos dinner in the Casco Viejo.