4 Days in Burgundy

TGV from Paris to Beaune (2.5 hours). The Hospices de Beaune is the most beautiful building in wine country — the polychrome tile roof is extraordinary (€10pp). Walked the ramparts and discovered the wine shops clustered around the old town. Tasted at Bouchard Père & Fils in their 15th-century cellar. Dinner at Le Bistrot Bourguignon — perfect boeuf bourguignon with a village-level Volnay.

Rented bikes and cycled the Route des Grands Crus from Beaune north to Gevrey-Chambertin (about 30km). Passed through the legendary villages: Pommard, Volnay, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Nuits-Saint-Georges. The vineyards are smaller than you'd expect — some grand cru plots are the size of a football pitch. Stopped for tastings at three domaines. The Meursault producer poured us wines from 1999.

Drove north to Chablis (90 mins). Completely different landscape — rolling green hills rather than the Côte d'Or's golden slopes. Tasted at three producers including a premier cru Montée de Tonnerre that made me understand why Chablis is special. The town itself is tiny — we walked the whole thing in 20 minutes. Lunch at a riverside café with a carafe of village Chablis.

Morning visiting the Clos de Vougeot — the 12th-century Cistercian wine press is mesmerising (€12pp). Drove slowly along the Côte de Nuits, stopping at viewpoints. Final tasting in Marsannay at a domaine doing exceptional rosé (Burgundy's forgotten wine). Train back to Paris with new appreciation for the meaning of terroir.