By Richard & Claire · Champagne collectors from Surrey, visiting the region for the third time
TGV from Paris to Reims (45 mins). Started at Veuve Clicquot — the underground chalk cellars are 25km long and go back to Roman times (€50pp for premium tour). Walked to Taittinger (€30pp, intimate atmosphere). The Reims cathedral at sunset was magical. Dinner at Le Foch, a Michelin-starred restaurant, with a 5-course pairing.
Drove to Épernay — the Avenue de Champagne is supposedly the most expensive street in the world (billions of euros of champagne ageing underneath it). Visited Moët & Chandon (grand and impressive) then discovered a tiny grower-producer down a side street making remarkable single-vineyard blanc de blancs. Wine purchased: 6 bottles.
Rented a car and drove the Route du Champagne through the Montagne de Reims. Stopped at three grower-producers — each one felt like visiting someone's home. Bought directly at cellar-door prices (30-40% less than Paris shops). Last tasting overlooking the valley of the Marne, misty in the December cold. Drove back to Paris with a boot full of champagne.
Would have done 4 days instead of 3 — the Côte des Bar (southern Champagne) around Troyes is supposed to be the next frontier for grower champagne, and we ran out of time. Also, the luxury hotel in Reims was beautiful but a good B&B would have been just as romantic.
Visit in the off-season. Winter champagne is magical — fewer tourists, misty vineyards, and cosy cellar tastings. Book the big houses online 2-3 weeks ahead. For grower producers, just show up — they love walk-ins and will pour generously.
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