By James & Sophie · London-based couple, wine enthusiasts for 8 years
Flew into Bordeaux-Mérignac and drove straight to Saint-Émilion. The medieval village is stunning — cobblestone streets winding between ancient stone buildings. We did a walking tour of the underground catacombs and monolithic church (€12pp), then tasted at two family estates. Dinner at L'Envers du Décor with a bottle of local Merlot.
Hired a driver for the day (€280 for 8 hours — split with another couple we met at the hotel). Visited Margaux, then Pauillac for Château Lynch-Bages (exceptional tour, €25pp). Stopped at a roadside oyster shack in Arcachon on the way back — shucked to order with cold Muscadet. One of the best meals of the trip.
Morning at Château Smith Haut Lafitte — the spa, vineyards, and cooperage tour were world-class (€30pp). Their white Bordeaux was a revelation. Afternoon exploring Bordeaux city: La Cité du Vin (€20pp) is a must. Evening strolling the Chartrons district, dinner at a bistro on Rue Notre-Dame.
Rented bikes and cycled through the vineyards around Pomerol — flat terrain, gorgeous scenery, minimal traffic. Tasted at a tiny garage winery that wasn't in any guidebook (the owner poured us 6 vintages from his personal cellar). Afternoon at Château Figeac, then sunset picnic on the plateau with cheese, bread, and a bottle we'd bought that morning.
Last morning driving south to Sauternes. The misty vineyards along the Ciron river explained why botrytis thrives here. Tasted at Château Guiraud (organic, excellent value) and bought two bottles to bring home. Quick lunch in Langon before heading to the airport.
Book the big-name Médoc estates at least 3 weeks ahead. We missed Mouton-Rothschild because we tried to book 5 days out. Also, bring a cooler bag for the car — we lost a bottle of Sauternes to the afternoon heat.
Don't try to hit every famous château. The smaller, family-run estates in Saint-Émilion and Pomerol gave us the best experiences. And absolutely hire a driver for the Médoc — the distances are longer than they look and you'll want to taste properly.
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Read the Bordeaux Wine Guide →The tiny grower-producer on a side street in Épernay — better champagne than the grand houses at half the price
Cycling the Route des Grands Crus — standing next to Romanée-Conti with nobody around